A Reference Book on Fragrances ©


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Perfumer - Jean Claude Elenna - Photo by Kirk McCoy


Michael Edwards:                                                            


"Modern perfumery is an intuitive blend of art and science. As long as convention forced perfumers

to imitate the simple scents of flowers, there was little scope for originality. A rose is a rose is a rose, but a

great perfume creates emotion. The development of a vast palette of synthetic aroma chemicals gave

perfumers the means to add new character, originality and

tenacity of the scents of nature."


The Bases


Aldehydic Fruity Base - A fruity compound designed for fine fragrance accords suitable for a wide range of applications.

Amber Substitute - An elegant amber note with a discreet rich dry background.

Ambrein Synthetic - Characterized by a woody character with a hint of a sweet oriental undertone.

Argumen Aldehyde Substitute - A floral aldehydic complex with a hyacinth nuance.  Can be a perfect note for compositions that require extra lift.

Apple Base - Has a fresh Macintosh green sweetness based on Di Ethyl Malonate and Hexadrenyl Iso Butyrate. For functional products and fine fragrance applications.

Benzoin Synthetic - Sweet vanilla base, quite resinous has a characteristic benzoin tone.

Benzoin Resin - Has a sweet creamy vanilla like odor.

Bergamit Base - Fresh yet dry aldehydic lemon petitgrain type odor.  Has higher Linalool content then bergamot synthetic.

Bergamot Synthetic - Sweet fruity odor of the bergamot orange. Can be used in larger percentages in lieu of the natural essential oil.

Blueberry Base - A fine fragrance truly reminiscent of fresh blueberry’s typically enjoyed with ones morning cereal, or in a pie.

Bubblegum Base - A base centered on Benzyl Acetate, and Orange Oil of California.  Suggestive of Bazooka bubble gum enjoyed as a child.

Carnation Base - A spicy carnation rose like complex.  Has a sweetness similar to the olfactive note of Iso Eugenol.

Cassia Substitute - An artificial simulation for perfume compositions with a reduced content of Cinnamic Aldehyde.

Castoreum Tincture - A long lasting reproduction of an essential note from the castoreum beaver.

Cinnamon Bark Synthetic - A diffusive odor equivalent to Cinnamon Bark, but free from the harshness of Cinnamic Aldehyde.

Civet # 3 - An artificial animal fecal like note reminiscent of the civet cat raised in Ethiopia.

Civet Tincture - An animalic smell that is suggestive of the secreted gland compound found in the civet cat. Strong and long lasting.

D' Limonene Substitute - A reproduction of the juicy citrus orange note reminiscent of freshly squeezed orange juice enjoyed with your morning breakfast.

English Leather Base - A recreated simulation of a Chypre Leather blend.  Suitable for masculine applications where a special note is needed to round off a fine fragrance accord.

Fir Needle Substitute - An inexpensive filler to simulate Fir Needle Canadian Oil. Based on Iso Bornyl Acetate this specialty base helps to add volume to a wide range of functional applications.

Freesia Base - A classic reproduction of a fresh floral scent reproducing the natural aroma. This fragrance compound will add diffusion to any floral composition even in trace amounts.

Galaxolide Artense - A musk base centered on Galaxolide 50. This fragrance is animalic yet still sweet and strong.

Gardenia Base - Need an artificial simulation of a green scent.  Styrallyl Acetate is utilized to add a greenness to overcome the strength of other floral materials.  Reminiscent of a fresh flower found blooming in a garden on a warm summer day.

Geraniol Tails - An inexpensive base suitable for that special geranium note where an application requires a filler for volume.

Geranium Base - An earthy herbaceous rose like odor.  Helps to support the heart notes of diverse floral applications.

Geranium Substitute - An inexpensive simulation of the essential oil for a wide range of modern fragrances.

Grape Synthetic - Fruity odor providing a low cost natural grape flavor free of the coloring problems associated with the anthranilate family of aromas.

Grapefruit Base - Fresh citrus grapefruit odor with a discreet tartness reminiscent of the natural peel before squeezing.

Green Citrus - Characteristically green yet sweet and fruity. A fine reproduction simulating a natural peel like odor.  Perfect for zesty creations where something extra is needed.

Heidera Base - A warm spicy blend centered on Olibanum and Galbanum resins.  Provides green floral support in trace amounts.  The spicy flavor of this base provides support in Oriental, Spicy, Carnation, Ylang- Ylang compositions.

Honey Base - Sweet artificial base suggestive of golden blossom honey brought to our breakfast table by our friendly bumble bees.

Hyacinth Base - Strong leafy green.  Has a natural sweet pea like note. Perfect for diverse floral applications where a special delicate note is required.

Hydroxycitronellal Extender - A fragrance blend that substitutes the floral green muguet note of Lily of the Valley. Still light and airy with many diverse applications.

Ionone For Soap - This floral base was designed to match the discreet odor of a Violet.  Can be used in functional products & fine fragrance applications.

Ionone Intermediate - A slightly sweet violet odor that provides lift and support to floral accords.

Iraldeine Standard Substitute - A violet note that recreates the freshness of the natural flower. Helps add diffusion to a wide range of floral accords.

Iso Eugenol Replacement - A sweet spicy floral carnation like odor.  Similar to Iso Eugenol, yet it can be used in higher percentages in a wide range of applications.

Iso Eugenol Substitute - A tenacious spicy base. This scent adds warmth and a touch of class to both modern blends and classic formulations.

Jasmin Absolute Base - A natural reproduction of Jasmin.  Slightly sweet and has a freshness that closely resembles the odor naturally found in the absolute.

Jasmin Artificial - An economical and tenacious base with a discreet fruity top note. Constructed on Benzyl Acetate this compound blend adds life and diffusion to any floral accord.

Jasmin Base - A fine floral jasmin fragrance.

Jasmin Absolute Concrete Base - Resembles Jasmin concrete possessing a heavy sweetness.  Provides a long lasting presence in both bases, and floral blends of variable types.

Jasmin Province Base - A perfect blend of ingredients that together work in harmony to provide a fine reproduction of the essential oil at a lower cost.

Labdanum Resin Substitute - Sweet, rich and warm balsamic odor.  Has a natural ambre like note in dilution.  Easier to work with by providing extra stability in lieu of the natural glass like solid resin.

Lavender Citrus Base - An artificially recreated lavender blend. Has a citrusy top note that adds lift and freshness to chypre, fougere and lavender accords.

Lavender Synthetic - A clean and fresh spring like scent. The herbaceous nature of this base is sweet and closely resembles the flowers growing wild on the southern fields in France.

Lemon Artificial - This note is an artificial imitation of a fresh lemon.  Possesses stability in all kinds of finished products even in substantial amounts.

Lemon Terpenes Synthetic - Mildly lemon has a chemical like Citral note closely matching the fragrance ingredient at a lower cost.

Lilac Base - Delicate, clean sweet Lilac.  Based on Terpineol Prime this fragrance closely matches the freshness of a natural bush blooming in late spring.

Lime Base - A tart like lime odor.  Has a fresh peel sweetness reminiscent of the fresh fruit.

Methyl Ionone Residue Substitute - Harsh floral violet woody odor reminiscent of Methyl Ionone tails.

Muguet Base - This base has a sweet mild floral odor with diverse applications. A perfect fit for many accords that require a delicate green note.

Musk Ambrette Substitute - A sweet animal like scent that is reminiscent of Musk Ambrette without any usage restrictions.

Myrrh Resin Substitute - A balsamic spicy odor deeply and intensively aromatic.

Narcisse Base - Sweet floral odor with a rich green foliage undertone.  Suggestive of Narcisse Absolute with more potential then the natural oil due to lower cost.

Neroli Blossom Base - A rich orange blossom type odor.  Has a delicate warmth, but at the time displays a floral scent with a light spiciness that is a delight.

Neroli Blossom Substitute - A strong floral odor of Neroli. Blends well with many different perfume aromas in diverse applications.  The compound has a true versatility that is comparable to the natural flower.

Oak Base - A woody fragrance centered on precious woods blended primarily with the rich Cedar.  Its woodiness is both tenacious, and at the same time has a powdery note reminiscent of grandmother’s cedar chest.

Olibanum Resin Substitute - A tenacious balsamic spicy odor. Has a true terpene green character with a dry top note.

Opoponax Base - Artificial substitute of incense suggestive of the essential oil. Has an intense sweetness, but at the same time remains spicy.

Orange Oil Substitute - Truly representative of freshly squeezed California oranges.  The odor naturally occurs in the fresh peel of the fruit.

Orange Blossom Base - Cost effective long lasting sweet odor of natural orange blossoms.

Organic Shampoo Base - Herbaceous natural like blend that has applications as diverse as Fougeres, Lavender including Chypre concepts.

Orris Concrete Substitute - This orris blend is reminiscent of fresh violet’s with a delicately green leaf like note.

Patchouli # 5 - This tenacious odor is strong and woody yet rich and sweet.  Its earthiness’s reminiscent of the natural essential oil prized as a base note by many artist.

Patchouli Oil MD - This base is light in color yet possesses a warmth that closely matches the essential oil.  Can be used in larger percentages without worrying about coloration problems of Patchouli Dark.

Peach Base - A radiant specialty that possesses a floral heart with the top centered on the natural fruit.  The fragrance strength is based on the fresh fruity note of Aldehyde C - 14.  A fine selection of aromatic compounds has been added to finish the accord.  A perfect fit for any fine fragrance application, or functional product.

Peru Balsam Base - Balsamic sweet and vanilla like in dilution resembles Hyacinth.

Pine Substitute - A coniferous pine scent that is reminiscent of pine needles found on the floor of North American forests.

Powdery Base - Seeking that special powder note? This compound is based on Cedarwood Oil of Virginia and Anisic Aldehyde otherwise known as Hawthorne.  Suitable for functional applications including fine fragrance accords.

Raspberry Extender - A tart like fruity note reminiscent of raspberry preserves found in a jar of Smucker's jam.  Its sweetness is not excessive, and can be used to provide lift in both floral & fruity blends.

Rose Artificial - A fresh clean rose odor quite reminiscent of Rose Oil Turkey.

Rose Absolute Synthetic - An inexpensive substitute of natural absolutes from rose petals.  Has a richness that closely matches synthetically the deep rose odor of the natural oil.

Rose Base - Founded on Citronellol and Geraniol this specialty has a natural sweetness suitable for a wide variety of accords and applications.

Rose For Soap - A rich sweet deep rosy odor.  This base simulates closely the freshness of a garden rose.

Rose Floral # 60 - An intense rose like odor suitable for diverse applications in many floral compositions.

Rose Substitute - Rich, sweet deep rosy complex odor with a discreet honey note. An outstanding base that can add diffusion, and life to most fragrances.

Sandalwood Extender - Captures the rich sweetness of fine sandalwood oil from India.

Sandalwood Synthetic - This base is a synthetic simulation of Sandalwood Oil. It reproduces closely a fine sandal woody odor.  It is a cost effective substitute, and can be used in higher percentages as a base due to a lower cost.

Sassafras Base - Sweet and warm spicy odor of Ocotea Cymbarium.

Shift Base Lilial/Methyl Anthranilate - A delightful floral green fresh odor with a fruity grape like top note.

Resin Styrax Substitute - Pleasant balsamic floral odor in extreme dilution.

Styrax Essence Coeur - The finest smoky aromatic grade sweet and floral when diluted.

Styrax Resinoid PB - A balsamic odor reminiscent of hyacinth, jonquille and tuberose.

Resin Tolu Substitute - Warm balsamic hyacinth like odor with a floral hyacinth like undertones.

Traseolide 700 Base - A sweet musk base that is clean, and versatile with many diverse applications.

Tuberose Substitute - An intensely sweet long lasting characteristically warm floral odor.  This specialty base has a high content of Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol.  The honey like notes adds a unique effect to this accord.

Vanilla Tincture - A concentrated sweet odor of the vanilla bean, pure.

Vanilla 10 Fold Base - Intensely sweet warm vanilla like balsamic odor.

Vetivert Extender - This base has a characteristic precious woody odor with slight fruity background to highlight its overall sweetness.

Violet Base - This specialty item is characteristic of a green floral violet. The notes are subtle yet still fresh. Certainly a versatile base that can be used in a wide variety of fine, and functional applications.

Ylang Ylang Substitute - An economical reconstruction of the essential oil. Intensely floral, strong balsamic and spicy. It reflects the typical odor profile of ylang-ylang. The creamy sweetness and spicy notes are perfectly balanced.  Permits a higher usage level then the natural oil due to the use of synthetics.

Ylang Ylang Synthetic - This compound has a warmth and sweet aspect that few specialties in this group of oils possess.  Has an outstanding floral odor, with a discreetly sweet spiciness to add to the freshness of the fragrance.

Ylang # 65 - A floral and intensely sweet odor reminiscent of the fine top note characteristics of natural ylang-ylang.


Fragrance Houses - "Fragrance Ingredients by House"


Laboratory - "Fractional Steam Distillation Still"


Perfume - "The Story of a Swindle"